Tayrona sails from Panama City to Hiva Oa, Marquesas in just under twenty-four days of beautiful South Pacific weather on the Coconut Milk Run! Almost a month out on the high seas and what do we have to show for it? This fancy video for starters!
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Day 3 at sea.
We were becalmed in the night and ended up motoring through the darkness with the bioluminescent plankton streaming out our twin sterns like rocket bursts. I took advantage of the flat seas and engine-heated water to take a (hot!) shower off the transom. Occasionally squid light up in the water like little fireworks, especially bright when one goes through the props! A big black bird came scooting in to sit on our boat for rest. It was a good night.
This morning we were still with no wind and glassy seas.
Saw the highest concentration of dolphins I’ve ever seen in my life. There had to be 100 of them in small groups all around the boat, jumping and cavorting. I’m guessing that they were mating because I haven’t seen that many together at once. Didn’t seem like feeding behavior either.
They’d jump like rockets into the air, seemingly just to play the who-can-get-the-best-air-time game with each other.
Still about 15 miles from Isla Malpelo, a Colombian island which is home to a military base, and no landing available. We turn more west from there and head to the Galapagos. The diversion south then west is to take advantage of the stronger winds further south. I’ll tell you when we find them!
All of our market fresh produce is aging quickly in the tropical heat. We are each eating about 3 bananas, and apple, and a quart of cut up papaya and pineapple EACH daily just to keep ahead of the fruit going bad. I think I smell like fruit. Who’d have thought you’d go to sea and be sick of fresh, tropical fruit?
Taking advantage of the calm seas, and excess power from the diesels to do some projects on the boat. All good here on Tayrona.
Day 2 at sea.
Well it’s our second full day aboard in passage to Galapagos. Yesterday brought low winds and we hoisted the purple, pink, and blue spinnaker. It’s nice to have something colorful out in all this blue and white. We made 5 knots in 7 knots of wind. Pretty good, and beat sailing wing-wing in low wind with the headsail flapping.
Some stronger winds last night made for a faster ride. Waves hadn’t had time to build, so we went lickedy-split!
Yesterday we heard blowing sounds off our starboard and saw whales spouting about a 500 meters away. Also big dolphins came to investigate us. Dolphins seem larger and slightly less interested in us than their Caribbean counterparts.
Made 96 miles and are averaging 5 knots. Calm, comfortable sailing. Finally made it out of the big bay of Panama City. Now we’re into blue water, though we’re still seeing tree trunks floating by occasionally.
Boat traffic has decreased. Last night we only saw one. This morning we had two stowaways, squid landed on the deck! We will fish with them today!
Took advantage of the flat seas to trim up my wild-sailor mane.
All is good aboard Tayrona. Working on a set of Baggywrinkles for chafe protection on the spreaders. The mainsail touches when we are going downwind and we don’t want it to rub holes in the fabric.
Baggywrinkles are made by pulling apart an old rope into strands, then tying them into two 8′ fishing lines with a lark’s head knot. Makes a shaggy line that looks like a dirty Pomeranian hung out to dry. Then you wind it around the spreaders, something I’ll have to do when we get into port.
More later from the deck of the Tayrona!
