Passage to Marquesas: Day 4 and 5

Author: Pete
Location: 05°57.424S’ 98°45.381W’
Date: 11:00 March 2 to 11:00 March 4

 

Day 4 and 5 at sea.

Good wind on Thursday, between 10 and 16 knots, accompanied by taller rollers than we’ve had so far on this passage and some chop. We’re sailing on a beam reach heading roughly WSW. Gorgeous night on Thursday (who cares what day it is out here, right?) with almost full moon and light cloud cover. The boat is pitching and bucking in the bigger waves, but seemed happy to be making 5-7 knots after several days of light wind.

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Had a low key day Thursday. Attached the towing generator better so it doesn’t vibrate so much. Caught a tiny mahi mahi, maybe 20″, but threw him back. Great colors though, gold and blue! Played Rummikub this afternoon. It tests not only your logistic capabilities, but also how well you can hold your lunch down. He who can stand to look at the tiles on the table longest wins! Made a good curry with the last of our cauliflower, a tricky feat on a rolling boat. There are some veggies in the bilges now I’m sure.

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Squalls came more and more frequently during the day Friday starting early in the morning. Couldn’t get a radio signal good enough to send an email due to the heavy weather around us. Winds kicked up to 22 knots in the squalls accompanied by rain all day long. We all got a good shower on the house! We have a double reef in the main and jib and the boat is sailing along happily. She doesn’t seem to notice that we’re being shaken up like a snow globe in here! Liza somehow made plantain bread out of some sweet, ripe plantains, a treat on a stormy day.

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The first several hours of heavy seas is a little wearing on the nerves. One thinks that being out in the elements at the helm with all the crew at the ready is the way to keep the boat upright. But really, she needs to have appropriately reefed sails, a good heading, and a lookout for boats. Other than that, she’s happy to handle herself, and we need just watch from the navigation station inside, protected by Tayrona’s thick shell, and hold the hell on. It’s hard to overstate the value of having rested crew. It’s difficult to resist the temptation to be up and running around on deck tweaking sail trim, scouring the horizon for squalls, and standing in the way of the on watch crew. Eventually, you just have to get into dry clothes and get some shut eye. Night watch can be long when it’s rainy and dark.

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Now, the hidden full moon is blasting the high cloud cover with light and the scornful sea is illuminated. Tayrona is charging through the waves happily. The only sounds are the whir of the wind generator, the buzz of the towing generator when the ‘fish’ skips out of the water on a big wave, and the bang of the chop on the underside of the hull.

Passage to Marquesas: Day 3

Author: Pete
Location: 04°10.162S 94°40.047W
Date: 11:00 April 1 to 11:00 April 2

 

Day 3 at sea.

Good wind and great weather today. Lots of sun but not too hot. Last night mid-watch the wind kicked decidedly to port and stiffened to a blustery 11 knots apparent. It was enough for me to pull out sail and kick off the motors just to see if there was enough to sail with. It’s hard to know. Going at 6 knots under motor in 11 knots of apparent wind almost straight on the nose gives roughly 5 knots of true wind once you kill the engines, hardly enough to sail upwind. The angle change in important as was the increase and we had enough to move us at 3.5 – 4 knots upwind. It’s so quiet with the motors down! Sounds like real sailing! We were happy to be under the power of the wind again even if we had to divert course some 20 degrees to the west to do so.

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We’re practicing French aboard Tayrona! We’re on to the waters of French Polynesia, and our Spanish and German aboard won’t cut it! We’re having French Hour every day to get ourselves ready! Bonne nuit! Miranda is spearheading the operation, having had the most French exposure in school. Tre bien! We’re so used to slinging Spanish functionally and getting along with relaying our needs and thoughts. I’m out of practice in charades and gesticulation… but not out of practice of looking foolish I suppose.

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Made contact again today with our flotilla of boats. A couple more have joined us, so we’re six going across. We’re spread out over a good distance, the closest at 16 miles and the farthest 150 miles away. There are still a few in port at Isabela who will be following us in a few days. Let the invasion of the Marquesas begin!

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Something fishy aboard Tayrona tonight! A bright blue flying fish 10″ long on the trampoline just before bed flopping around. We sent him flying back into the sea!

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All good aboard with just our wind generator chugging along cheerfully and the moon lighting up the sea.

Passage to Marquesas: Day 2

Author: Pete
Location: 03°17.889S 93°04.842W
Date: 11:00 March 31 to 11:00 April 1

 

Day 2 at sea.

A giant marine iguana, some 150 feet long has been chasing us since Galapagos. It’s spitting fire, wrestling with other massive creatures, and plowing over audio-dubbed Japanese folks. It appears that we’re being followed by Godzilla!

Kidding, kidding. It’s April 1st. Couldn’t help but throw in an April Fool’s joke. All fact from here on out.

Today we got some wind, despite a rainy, cloudy day. We had several hours during the day of 15-18 knots of wind. We put out all our sails and cooked along at 6 or 7 knots. It’s always difficult to get used to the odd habit of waking up for a few hours in the middle of the night for watch, so we all had a nice, rainy afternoon nap at some point in the day. Although the seas are similar to yesterday, just big rollers, everyone is feeling better and getting accustomed again to the motion of the ocean. It’s disheartening that your sea legs come so slowly and go away without notice once you’re ashore for a while.

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Got the towing generator up and running when we were sailing. We were getting 0.5 amps from the solar when it was really overcast and cloudy, and the wind generator was shadowed by the mainsail, so we were discharging 2.5A – 4A. Threw the towing generator’s 3kg ‘fish’ in the water, and plugged it into the power inlet I installed in Panama City. Viola! Power! Okay, not that much moving at 4 knots, some 0.5A, but when the wind kicked up and we started making 5.5-6 knots the generator put out 2.5-3.5 amps, even saw some ‘charge’ on our battery monitor. I almost threw the thing overboard earlier on the trip since it takes up a lot of space and we don’t use it going upwind when the wind gen really shines. Now doing some downwind when the wind gen isn’t putting out much I predict it will be more useful than it has been as extra ballast in the starboard bilge.

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Ate more of the tuna we caught for lunch. And also for dinner. We even have some broth we made from the extra parts. Liza threw in some onion and fresh herbs. Time to get creative!

We have a bright, nearly full moon tonight, no clouds, no rain, no waves. It’s gorgeous! The bright silver ribbon of moonlight waving from the horizon up to our boat stretches off to the west.

If we only had some wind! Connected with our buddy boats out here; they’re having similar conditions. Sounds like that’s the general operation, motor southwest from Galapagos three days until you find the trade winds. If you get some wind along the way, great! We even saw one of them tonight, a single tricolor light on the horizon. Couldn’t tell who it was, but definitely a solitary sailboat like us.

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All good on Tayrona this night.