Well it’s our second full day aboard in passage to Galapagos. Yesterday brought low winds and we hoisted the purple, pink, and blue spinnaker. It’s nice to have something colorful out in all this blue and white. We made 5 knots in 7 knots of wind. Pretty good, and beat sailing wing-wing in low wind with the headsail flapping.
Some stronger winds last night made for a faster ride. Waves hadn’t had time to build, so we went lickedy-split!
Yesterday we heard blowing sounds off our starboard and saw whales spouting about a 500 meters away. Also big dolphins came to investigate us. Dolphins seem larger and slightly less interested in us than their Caribbean counterparts.
Made 96 miles and are averaging 5 knots. Calm, comfortable sailing. Finally made it out of the big bay of Panama City. Now we’re into blue water, though we’re still seeing tree trunks floating by occasionally.
Boat traffic has decreased. Last night we only saw one. This morning we had two stowaways, squid landed on the deck! We will fish with them today!
Took advantage of the flat seas to trim up my wild-sailor mane.
All is good aboard Tayrona. Working on a set of Baggywrinkles for chafe protection on the spreaders. The mainsail touches when we are going downwind and we don’t want it to rub holes in the fabric.
Baggywrinkles are made by pulling apart an old rope into strands, then tying them into two 8′ fishing lines with a lark’s head knot. Makes a shaggy line that looks like a dirty Pomeranian hung out to dry. Then you wind it around the spreaders, something I’ll have to do when we get into port.
Dawn breaks on our first full day at sea! Left the shelter (and chaos) of Panama City yesterday afternoon and sailed southwest into the sunset.
Miranda saw night dolphins on watch last night! Heard their breathing before seeing them, and at 1:00 am when you think you’re the only thing awake for miles, it can be a little startling. Also saw a lot of ships. Too many ships. No dodging required, but still requires careful watch. By our AIS, looks like we were right in the middle of the shipping lanes. Boats headed south to our starboard, northbound on the port (our heading is straight south).
Light winds and calm, following seas made for comfortable sailing… and sleeping! Now that we’re out of the planning mode we have time to relax! It’s freeing to know that no more prep work can be done- now we just concentrate on sailing and enjoying the tranquility of the sea.
Weather ahead looks good. The ITCZ is farther north than normal, which should decrease our chances of squalls.
Well I was hoping to like Panama City more than Colón, but while the city itself is nicer, the anchorage kind of sucks. It’s packed and every five minutes a tug, pilot boat, or tourist barge throws enough wake through the anchorage to knock things off tables and annoy the piss out of you after a while. Also, the area has 4 or 5 meter tides, and heavy current associated with them. Everyone’s boat reacts differently to wind and current, so at some point in the changing tides various boats are feathered in different directions and don’t lay nicely threatening collisions.
Our first night a holler yanked me out of a deep slumber and I was on deck and fending off a boat before I was actually awake. Pulled in some chain and stayed up watching the boat doing a devil spiral like our wind generator. In the span of an hour the boat swung stern to wind, right across our stern, spun at the end of its chain, caught the wind with its hull and sailed through to the other end of its chain before flipping back around and being carried by current back toward us. Freaky. I slept on deck with one eye open.
Shipped Liza and Felix off to see their friends and do some surfing.Also brought the dinghy motor in to be service by Manuel, who works for Tohatsu motors.Our dinghy has gone from annoying to completely non-functional in the past few weeks and rowing in the hot Panama sun has been less than fun.
He started it up, as best one can do that these days, and diagnosed a ruptured fuel pump. We left the motor with him and took off an hour later bound for Las Perlas! The Las Perlas island chain is located a nice 35-mile sail from Panama City, and it was a great way to escape our less than desirable anchorage in the city.
Pretty good sailing with Mom and Denny in 15 knots of wind on a broad reach. Never thought I’d be able to share this experience with Mom. Thank you Scopolamine patches.God bless pharmaceuticals. Also cool to hear Denny’s sailing stories.
About two hours in we got a bit on my new squid lure! Denny and I hauled in a 5 pound tuna! My first catch (that I landed)! Finally!
I think I’ve been using lures that are a bit too big. It was an exciting catch, and then we set to work intoxicating the fish with a shot of alcohol in the gills and a knife to the brain. Sometimes I feel like I’ve had a knife to the brain when I’ve been passing too much alcohol through my gills too. Impressive to see how many little squid and sardines were in this guy’s stomach.
The wind died along the way, so we motored to Pacheco, the northern most island, arriving just before sunset. The wind then picked up and the current ripped through the island cut. Plus it smelled like cormorant poop. I made the call to move one island south despite the oncoming dark. I’m glad we did though we had to maneuver through a mooring ball field before anchoring south of Contadora.
In the morning we moved south again to the cut between Chapera and Mogo Mogo. The name of the island was worth going in itself! We even got to dig out our spinnaker and try it out along the 5-mile trip.
Found ourselves a tall sandy beach to swim to and lounge in the shade. Eventually we made a game of throwing crab apples at crabs the scuttled along the beach. Then after smelling the apples and finding the pleasant, Miranda took a bite of one. It tasted like sweet apple, so we all followed suit with a small nip each. A few minutes later our mouths were all fiery and scratchy. Stupid move. It went away. But stupid move.
Really interesting to deal with the big tides. Didn’t sleep hard again as we spun and feathered in weird ways all through the night.
Bagels for breakfast! It’s interesting what sort of American goodies you can find in Panama thanks to the canal. I worked on the rudders and wired the LEDs for the new inverter. Took all morning, of course. We got suited up and snorkeled right around the boat. Couldn’t go far with no motor for the dinghy and high current. But we had great sea life despite the bland, sandy bottom. Five or ten big stingrays worked the bottom, and troops of puffer fish doted on them as they fluffed the sand. Two long, green eels free swimming on the bottom, a party of 100 starfish, schools of jacks and other fish all added to the fun. The water was surprisingly cold! We’ve been spoiled in the Caribbean!
Cocktail hour, dinner and cards on a calm starry evening rounded out the night.
Motored back from Las Perlas in calm seas back to the crowded, rolling, annoying anchorage of Panama City. Did my dissatisfaction come out just then? Spending a week prepping the boat for the push to Galapagos. Exciting times and a lot of work ahead!
