Passage to Marquesas: Day 7

Author: Pete
Location: 06°41.359S’ 103°59.124W’
Date: 11:00 April 5 to 11:00 April 6

 

Day 7 at sea.

It’s Easter Sunday and one full week on the water! We had home made granola for breakfast and followed it up with an Easter basket: five pounds of Jelly Bellies smuggled aboard by a castaway! Thanks Mom! We’ve been trying to ration them, as dialysis clinics are few and far between ’round these parts. We’ve only eaten about a half pound so far. It’s a good boat snack because they all have different flavors and you can’t mow handfuls at a time like popcorn, puppy chow, peanuts, M&M’s, pretzels, Chex Mix… am I giving the impression that we go through a lot of snacks aboard?

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Weather continues to be good for sailing, if not for comfort. 13-16 knot winds, making 6.5 knots on a beam reach. Had another PR day with 157 miles covered. The waves on the beam still make for a rowdy ride, but we’re getting used to it.

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It’s funny because topside on watch at night is gorgeous. There’s always some light noise of the wind generator whirring, the sheets creaking, and the water rushing by, splashing. But down below it sounds like the boat is coming apart. The wavelets slap on the underside of the bridge deck, and bounce off of the hulls, reflecting off one, smacking into the other. It’s like being in a bass drum sometimes. The bulkhead joints groan. You get used to it, but you can even feel the impacts through the fiberglass. Once you pop up topside, it’s whisper quiet though, and out on deck the boat shrugs off all but the biggest waves that come in broadside to us. When it sounds and feels scary down below, go up top!

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The other boats in the Tangaroa Trans-Pacific Fleet (cool name, eh? The Scots came up with it!) are doing well. There are two or three 60 footers that can really cut through the chop. They’re averaging 7 or 8 knots. In calm seas with wind we’d be able to give them a run for their money, but not out in the big waves. So we’re hanging in there with the normal boats. Nice to hear everyone on radio every day, see where they are and hear some yarns about fish caught.

No fish today for us. Trolled the waters with a very unhappy flying fish who ended up on our deck. No bites though. We made up for it with pizzas for lunch, and Greek chicken, potatoes, and our last surviving broccoli for dinner.

Other than my poor fishing skills, all is well on Tayrona.

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Passage to Marquesas: Day 6

Author: Pete
Location: 06°23.190S’ 101°33.436W’
Date: 11:00 March 4 to 11:00 March 5

 

Day 6 at sea.

Our fastest sail on record Saturday! 155 miles in the last 24 hours, averaging 6.5 knots. Doesn’t sound blazing fast, but that’s an average. In the morning when the winds were strongest we saw one 12 knot ride down a wave. It’s like a 32-ton skateboard. Very exciting. Good winds scoot us along, but choppy seas also.

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We’re pushing plantains! Get ’em while they’re yellow and not brown! Yesterday was plantain bread, today was plantain pancakes, hot off the griddle with butter and syrup. Couldn’t tell them from bananacakes.

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My night’s sleep is broken up into two pieces, 9pm-2am, and 5am-10am. I sat up awake in the middle of my second ‘sleep’ of the night and realized the towing generator wasn’t wired with a fuse. All the wiring is conveniently tucked under Liza and Felix’s bunk, so I was up fretting about that until they were up and I could do some wiring under deck on a bucking boat.

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Our fleet is doing well. we’re holding pace with the pack for the most part, although the two 60 footers are screaming faster than us mere mortals. One back stay and another’s reefing lines damaged in the past days’ squalls. They cruise on though. It’s odd to have some 10 boats now all cutting the waves, all between 20 and 150 miles away, fairly close in the 3000 mile crossing we’re on, but we can neither see them, sense them on radar, nor hear them on VHF. Alone in our snow globe. That’s the way I like it, I suppose.

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The two nights that we could see a masthead light on the horizon it became the focal point. Are they gaining on us? What’s their heading? Should we be bearing more south to take advantage of the conditions there? Bah! Who cares! It’s nice to have the quiet support of safety in numbers without being encumbered someone sailing right next to you.

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Passage to Marquesas: Day 4 and 5

Author: Pete
Location: 05°57.424S’ 98°45.381W’
Date: 11:00 March 2 to 11:00 March 4

 

Day 4 and 5 at sea.

Good wind on Thursday, between 10 and 16 knots, accompanied by taller rollers than we’ve had so far on this passage and some chop. We’re sailing on a beam reach heading roughly WSW. Gorgeous night on Thursday (who cares what day it is out here, right?) with almost full moon and light cloud cover. The boat is pitching and bucking in the bigger waves, but seemed happy to be making 5-7 knots after several days of light wind.

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Had a low key day Thursday. Attached the towing generator better so it doesn’t vibrate so much. Caught a tiny mahi mahi, maybe 20″, but threw him back. Great colors though, gold and blue! Played Rummikub this afternoon. It tests not only your logistic capabilities, but also how well you can hold your lunch down. He who can stand to look at the tiles on the table longest wins! Made a good curry with the last of our cauliflower, a tricky feat on a rolling boat. There are some veggies in the bilges now I’m sure.

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Squalls came more and more frequently during the day Friday starting early in the morning. Couldn’t get a radio signal good enough to send an email due to the heavy weather around us. Winds kicked up to 22 knots in the squalls accompanied by rain all day long. We all got a good shower on the house! We have a double reef in the main and jib and the boat is sailing along happily. She doesn’t seem to notice that we’re being shaken up like a snow globe in here! Liza somehow made plantain bread out of some sweet, ripe plantains, a treat on a stormy day.

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The first several hours of heavy seas is a little wearing on the nerves. One thinks that being out in the elements at the helm with all the crew at the ready is the way to keep the boat upright. But really, she needs to have appropriately reefed sails, a good heading, and a lookout for boats. Other than that, she’s happy to handle herself, and we need just watch from the navigation station inside, protected by Tayrona’s thick shell, and hold the hell on. It’s hard to overstate the value of having rested crew. It’s difficult to resist the temptation to be up and running around on deck tweaking sail trim, scouring the horizon for squalls, and standing in the way of the on watch crew. Eventually, you just have to get into dry clothes and get some shut eye. Night watch can be long when it’s rainy and dark.

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Now, the hidden full moon is blasting the high cloud cover with light and the scornful sea is illuminated. Tayrona is charging through the waves happily. The only sounds are the whir of the wind generator, the buzz of the towing generator when the ‘fish’ skips out of the water on a big wave, and the bang of the chop on the underside of the hull.