Passage to Niue: Day 5

Author: Pete

Location: 17°33.639S’ 161°11.767W’

Date: July 23, 2015

Day 5 at sea.

Seas and wind continued to build into the night. We have a long-period swell coming in from the south. It’s hard for me to estimate or describe how big these ocean rollers are. It’s like an apartment building on its side rolling toward you at a jogging pace. You know those shots in action movies where the airplane crashes and is sliding towards the protagonist throwing sparks? Feels like that, but the sparks are white spray. They’re really tall, but widely spaced and the boat generally rides up and over them easily.

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We also have a short-period wave train from all the wind coming from the southeast. These aren’t as tall as the big rollers, but are steep and frequent. They’re the ones breaking over our hull and washing the deck. The two of these major wave trains make for a confused sea that’s sloshing the boat around like a tennis shoe in a washing machine. The tennis shoe doesn’t seem to care, but the mice inside it are getting worked.

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Did you ever see the movie Memphis Belle? As the swells sweep under the boat, depending on if we’re going up or coming down, they slap on the outside of the windward hull, or on the inside of the leeward hull and bridge deck. It makes a deep BOOM and shakes the boat. Makes me feel like I’m in a B-17 bomber flying through an anti-aircraft artillery barrage. BOOM!-shake. BOOM!-rattle. BOOM-BOOM!. To make it fun look through the port holes and fire at the swarms of imaginary fighter planes with my fifty-calibre baguettes. Ack-ack-ack-ack!

Can you tell that my iPod died? I ran out quickly to tie down a strap that came loose with my Ipod in my pocket and promptly got nailed by a boarding wave. Electronics and sea water don’t mix well, but that old girl doesn’t owe me a darn thing.

Things are hardest at dusk. You’re used to being able to see the waves and move with them. As twilight falls the sea and sky become the same color and you lose that ability. Eventually it gets dark enough that you forget about the monsters outside and just roll with it. The boat doesn’t care, why should you? We have about 1/4 of our main and 1/3 of our jib out. Still making 6-7 knots. The wind has been variable, but stays between 19 and 28 knots, with some gusts higher into the 30s. You can tell because the wind generator automatically shuts down for a few minutes after 30 knots. You know you’re having fun when your wind generator, a piece of equipment that by design needs lots of wind says, “Too much for me losers! Peace OUT!”

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We have radar up and scanning for boats and looking at squall movement. We’re getting a good deal of sea return, where the radar sees waves and thinks they are ships. Fun, eh? Miranda is a heavy-seas rock star. I don’t think she notices that we’re bucking and heaving like crazy. It’s the literal sense of being even-keeled. Last night it was too dark to see the horizon, really disorienting; I staggered upstairs to relieve Miranda of the watch, clutching railings, cabinets, and sinks trying not to yak. She’s finishing a Level 5 Sudoku and munching snacks like it’s a lazy Sunday afternoon. Me, I keep up by popping Dramamine like crack-flavored Pez.

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Grib weather files say we have another day of this circus before things settle down. We’ve changed our course a touch to the south to try to get to clearer weather sooner. We will pass Palmerson Atoll tomorrow morning. If things get worse we can stop there and wait for things to clear. Despite the sucky conditions spirits are high and the boat is shrugging off the onslaught of wind and wave.  Check the wind gauge on that one…

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More from Tayrona soon.

Passage to Niue: Day 3 and 4

Author: Pete

Location: 17°14.150S’ 158°11.691W’

Date: July 22, 2015

Days 3 and 4 at sea.

Another birthday?!?! That seems excessive. I just had one last year about this time. I suppose I don’t mind yet though. Miranda had squirreled away some bacon in the recesses of the freezer unbeknownst to me and made me a great bacon and egg breakfast with fresh papaya on the side. She also made TWO cakes from scratch on the high seas, a chocolate and a pineapple upside down cake. We had a little of both with coffee and it was a nice morning indeed.

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The weather was gorgeous, blue skies, following seas, and enough wind to keep the spinnaker flying and happy. I did some fishing, not catching, but fishing, worked on one of the engines that’s being fussy, and did a lot of reading on the trampoline under the shade of the sails. Pretty pleasant birthday.

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The wind filled in overnight and now we’re making 7 knots in 15 knots of breeze. It’s 905 miles to Tonga, but who’s counting, eh? If every day is like this, I’ll be a happy camper, a 300 pound happy camper; I polished off at least half of the two cakes today.

 

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There’s bio luminescence in the water again, and we’re leaving trails of green fire though the sea as we go at night. The towing generator is kicking out energy and all is well aboard.

Passage to Niue: Day 1 and 2

Author: Pete
Location: 16°40.165S’ 153°42.387W’
Date: July 19, 2015
Day 1 and 2 at sea.

 

Yesterday we had a final lunch with some friends in Bora Bora at a famous place called Bloody Mary’s before hauling up the hook and motoring out of the pass and into the open ocean. We splurged for burgers and bloody marys because tomorrow on my birthday we’ll likely be eating tunafish on baguettes and gatorade.

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Out of the pass we caught some wind and pulled out all our canvas. We sailed west on a reach making 6 knots in 8 knots of wind on calm seas. We passed Maupiti just at sunset as great colors lit up the sky behind the high island.

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Good wind held through most of the night, but on my graveyard watch the wind swung astern and dropped to 4 knots. I put up the spinnaker single hand and stretched out on the trampoline to watch the stars and keep an eye out for boats.

We are getting our sea legs back after a good deal of time at anchor. We are trying out scopolamine patches to take the edge off the first few days at sea. After that your body get accustomed to the motion and all is well. So far so good. No signs of side effects which apparently include blurred vision and “acute toxic psychosis”. Sounds like a real dozy of a combination on the graveyard watch!

Today conditions were pretty flat and calm. It was a great day to lay out in the trampoline and read, but not so great for sailing. Fixed a plugged diesel hose, made yogurt, and made 12 gallons of water. All in a day’s work. Got a strike on one of my fishing lines, but not a hook up. I’ve heard fish don’t like flat, sunny conditions. I’m also a terrible fisherman. Good thing we stocked the boat full of Pringles and Gummy Bears.

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We should pass north of the island of Maupelia in a few hours. The wind is filling in and we’re back under sail. All good aboard tonight.