Colon, Panama

Author: Miranda

Remember that saying that all Moms teach their kids?  “If you can’t say anything nice, don’t say anything at all?  Well, therefore my feelings on Colon as travel destination will stay pretty short and sweet.  We’ve done our best to save money by steering clear of nightly stays docked up at a marina, but while in Colon we decided to stay at Shelter Bay Marina, which is probably as far from Colon while still being able to access the city as possible.  It was glorious to be tied up to a dock for a little while.

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Now, I never felt in danger in Colon and the grocery store was quite large and decently well-stocked, but Colon is the epitome of all those mega-industrial port cities that have much more to worry about than if the visitors are impressed by clean streets, clean air, nightlife, and roads/sidewalks that aren’t riddled with potholes.

But you can’t deny being impressed and awed by the dozens of freighters that line the entrance to the city. The sheer efficiency and engineering that permeates all that surrounds the canal is inspiring and dwarfing at the same time.  

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Given the glamorous attractions of Colon, most folks arrive in the city and immediately start their paperwork to head through the canal and get out of dodge as soon as possible.  We did the same.  Most folks also use an agent to help them navigate the documentation and general rigamarole, but we decided we’d give it a shot on our own.  And, I’m glad we did.  It’s really not that complicated, and there’s a plethora of information online to walk any would-be do-it-yourselver through the process.  Easy-peasy.  More or less.

The first step was to organize an official measurement of our boat.  While the admeasurer was aboard, he also filled out the many documents the Canal Authority needs and gave us our invoice to be paid at the local Citibank- in cash only, of course. 

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I took our wad of cash to the bank- stuffed and hidden into various locations in my undergarments.  Yes, in his infinite maturity, Pete couldn’t help the many stripper jokes that go along with packing your undies with twenties, but I wore the grungiest clothing my closet could afford (which unfortunately affords many options these days) and he mostly shut-up about it.

After they take your money, the Panama Canal Authority assigns you an official date to go through the canal and you’re pretty much set.  Our date was about a week out after our payment, so we used the time to work on the boat- imagine that! 

Have I told you my favorite line about long distance cruising??

“Circumnavigating is simply fixing your boat in exotic locations.” 

Ha! Ain’t that the truth.

So, yes, the to-do list…

We hit it hard and had the yard at Shelter Bay haul out Tayrona.  She was in pretty desperate need of a new coat of bottom paint and we needed to replace our rudder bearings, which is best done by pulling the boat out of the water.

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As soon as we had her out of the water, we started scrapping off the barnacles and then sanding off the last paint job.  Not a fun job, and we eventually realized that throwing a little money at the issue to make it go faster was well worth it.  So, we hired a few of the yard workers for a half day to help us sand down our two hulls. 

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As soon as the first hull was sanded down, we taped her up and started painting, all the while continuing to sand down the second hull.  We love our catamaran, but just slightly less when two hulls means twice the work.  We were blessed with two free gallons of paint left on the boat by the previous owner, and we were double-blessed to find the exact same paint in Colon from Roberto at Club Nautico.

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Doesn’t she look pretty?

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Sleeping on a boat while that boat is on rafters on land is not a fun experience (the whole thing rattles in the wind and your subconscious is always waiting for the entire thing to be blown over), so we were excited to put our baby back in the water.

Motored across the bay to spend a night or two on anchor, which was plenty to take in the sights of Colon.

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In order to go through the canal, a boat needs four line handers plus the captain, so we found some extra hands around town to help us out…

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Felix (Liza’s hubby), and Jeanne and Denny (Pete’s Mom and step-Dad).  Woo-hoo!

So, we waited out a few more days in the marina, did some last minute errands, and let our excitement grow as we waited out our scheduled day to hit the canal!

The Refit: All work and no play…

Author: Miranda

 

Well, there has been some play. But mostly work…

It’s fun to get yourself all worked up into some good melodrama sometimes, but let’s be honest. Yes, we’ve been working our tails off lately, but we also took a few days off to entertain our first visitors aboard, and the respite was really nice. I like to be cheeky, but, don’t worry, we are far from turning into this:

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Why don’t I quit the shenanigans and just begin…

 

We’ve been in Fort Lauderdale for about two weeks. We’ve made to-do list upon to-do list, checking off everything only to start the next day with a fresh list of new items to take care of.

 

After arriving in the mooring field here, we quickly met our neighbors and realized that tossing ideas around with other sailors is the absolute best way to bring our lowly ignorance up several notches in the “sailboat refit” school of hard knocks. We found a friend who runs a side-business in sailboat electrical systems, and we invited him aboard to give us an energy audit. He hooked up his multimeters and took readings on exactly how much energy we are using and how much our solar panels currently provide. Like in most boats, our refrigerator is the energy hog aboard, taking up 80-90% of our energy use.

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So, after looking at the numbers, Pete and I have made it our goal to become energy neutral. We want to create 100-125% of our energy usage using solar and wind power, so we don’t need to rely on running the engines (and using fossil fuels) to create enough energy for our lives aboard. Instead of going out and buying a whole bunch of new solar panels and a fancy wind generator right away, we started attacking this goal by making better use of the equipment we already have onboard. We purchased a new and very energy-efficient refrigerator compressor from Engel and we also bought a top of the line Outback MMPT charge controller for the solar panels. The charge controller works to monitor the voltage we are creating with the solar, and convert it to the 12volts that our batteries can handle, but it does this in a way that best utilizes any extra voltage we are creating, over the 12v that our batteries can handle. Instead of burning off any extra energy we might have at any given moment (like our old device would do), this new controller converts this excess to something different, by cycling between more amps/less voltage and less amps/more voltage, and is still able to make use of this excess energy instead of wasting it.

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While Pete worked to understand how our electrical systems work, I set out to get our single-sideband radio (SSB) up and running. The SSB radio is basically the marine equivalent to the ham radio, which saw its heyday in the 60s and 70s. When you are thousands of miles offshore, the SSB radio is really the only way to communicate with land, other than using satellite phones, but there’s no monthly plan or minutes to buy. It’s also our plan to use the SSB to get our daily weather reports while offshore. These babies haven’t really advanced all that much since the 60s, and since you’re bouncing your radio waves off the earth’s ionosphere, let’s just say connections can get a little crackly at times.

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After several days of swearing at the machine and consulting every single “Idiot’s guide to marine SSB use…” or similarly titled literature, I gave up. I was realizing that our SSB equipment onboard is old, not really installed to-the-letter, and just plain wouldn’t work.

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So I threw up a white flag and called in the experts. Gerry and Leo from Nautor Marine met us at the marina, dinghied out to Tayrona with us, and took a look at our set-up.

I knew it wasn’t great when they started out the conversation with, “you know with satellite phones and trackers from Spot and Delorme, you can get around having an SSB if you wanted….” Oh geez. Basically, our equipment was junk. The radio was old and probably didn’t work. The antenna and tuner were made for on land ham radio use (which just doesn’t work on a boat), and was horribly out of date. They ran down the prices to scrap and start fresh with a new system, and we kept our calm outside, but were both saying “OH SWEET JESUS, THAT’S EXPENSIVE!” on the inside. Amongst other expletives, I’m sure.

In the end, we decided that it was important for us to have an SSB on board, for weather and for communication with other sailors offshore, so we bit the bullet, bought the new parts, and we’ll be getting a new system installed in a few days.

 

THEN… there was some fun!! Pete’s Dad and his sister Liza came down to Florida officially to pick up the van we borrowed, but unofficially to go snorkeling, lobster fishing, and sailing with us.  We bought lobster licenses, and gave it our best shot, but were eluded by the little crustaceans.  But, we had blast out at anchor anyway!

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We even played around with the cast net one afternoon.  This baby is one tricky beast.

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Had a few too many rainy, cloudy, stormy days, but such is the life of a sailor.

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Since they left, it’s been back to the grindstone. In the last few days, we have:

  • Installed both the new fridge and the new charge controller (yes those are Pete’s feet sticking out of the storage compartment).

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  • Organized (or attempted to organize) the wiring around the boat.  This has been a huge job, as doing things the quick way and the right way are two VERY different things when it comes to electrical work.  Whoever first set up the wiring on our boat was a staunch proponent of the former option, over the latter, unfortunately for us.

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  • Moved our VHF radio to a different spot in the nav station, in order to make way for our new SSB.

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  • Ordered countless parts to be replaced once they arrive in several months (do parts always take two months to arrive? Jeez…) and our loving family carries them down to us in their suitcases.
  • Rewired all the solar panels in series, instead of parallel, as our new, fancy charge controller can handle a lot more voltage at any given time.

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  • Peeled off the old name stickers and replaced them with our own. Yay! Our boat finally says “Tayrona.”

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  • Acquired all of our official documents from the coast guard, saying that, yes, we really do own the boat, and, yes, we can leave the country with it.
  • Found that our boat does, in fact, come with a unit to plug into shore power, and wired that in.
  • Spent a morning provisioning at the local big box store, filling our storage with nonperishables that’ll be much more expensive in the caribbean.

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  • Dug out an old wind/towing generator that came with the boat, and took it from being completely nonfunctional to producing an amp or two per day.

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  • Attacked the tedious list of items that showed up on our survey- adding valves where they should be valves, putting our batteries in battery boxes, bought new life jackets and flares… ect, ect.

 

Oh man… there’s no way I’ll cover all the little do-dads and do-hickies that we’ve had to buy, replace, or repair.  It’s a darn good thing that both Home Depot and West Marine are in walking distance from the marina.

 

If I had to summarize, let’s just say that when it comes to a boat, there’s a lot to waterproof that doesn’t like to stay waterproofed, a lot that should be wired correctly and efficiently that generally isn’t, communication systems that go out of date faster than your iPhone, and plenty of previous owners who’ve left plenty of items to organize (why the heck did they put that here?), understand (what the heck does this thing do?), and clean up (seriously, if I find another screw hole drilled in this boat, I’m going to scream).

 

But, in the end, it’s been fun. I’m astounded each day by how much we are learning about our boat and about being a boat owner. We’ll get there. Just keep swimming, right?

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Bye-Bye Bubu

Author:  Miranda

Location:  Black Creek, WI

 

We really thought we had her!

 

We put in our offer.  We bit off our fingernails to stubs- well, Pete did anyway.  I just drank too much coffee and talked in short, blurting sentences to anyone I knew about “our offer.”

 

I couldn’t get Pete on the phone fast enough when I read Alexis’s email saying that Dariousz was prepared to accept our offer.  All we needed to do was email a formal contract with a few edits to Alexis right away and be prepared to send our 10% deposit to the brokering company’s escrow account on Monday morning.  Yes, we can do that.  Done.  Contract in and money ready to go.  To me, this was acceptance of our offer.

 

I guess I’m naive enough to accept people at their word.  To believe that even without seeing a signed contract, getting verbal (well, email) acceptance of our offer was enough.  Brokers are masters of the fine print, so I guess writing that he was “prepared to accept our offer,” must not be the same as “I’m accepting your offer.”  In addition, it would have been much clearer and honest to say, “the owner is continuing to show the boat and will be accepting offers until a contract is signed.”

 

Turns out that on Sunday afternoon a different prospect took a look at the boat (while our offer was accepted on Saturday), and told both the owner and the broker that he’d like to make a formal offer.  This offer was higher than ours, and we received an email from Alexis stating that Dariousz had accepted this offer instead of ours.

 

I will be the first person to admit that I am new at this process.  That I’ve never bought a house, much less, a boat before.  Obviously I know that money talks, and I can see a point of view that says it’s stupid to turn down more money from a higher offer until a contract has been officially signed.  But experiencing moments like this, those that make you disappointed in how you were treated by a fellow member of the human race are just kinda sucky.  Not the most eloquent way of stating this, but accurate.  Life will go on.  There are bigger problems in the world.  But still- this was kinda sucky.

 

We went to Florida as a learning experience in what specifics we are looking for in a cruising catamaran and gain knowledge into the boat buying process.  We’ve accomplished both of these, and we are really quite pleased with how things went.  This last incident just put a momentary hitch in our giddyup.  But, such as with all life’s lessons, those that hit hardest are often the most meaningful and long-lasting.  We are blessed to have this opportunity to take time off and sail, and we’ll continue to jump any hurdles we need to in order to make it happen.

 

Our boat is still out there, and we are fully confident that we’ll find her yet!