Brisbane, Australia

Author:  Pete
Location:  Brisbane, Australia

So that’s it!  Sail in from the deep blue and be done with it!  Quack!  With all things boaty it’s not that easy.  But, we’re making progress in the right direction.  We met with quarantine in the morning after our arrival and then found my mom in town.  Brisbane is fabulous!  Who knew?!  I was a bit overwhelmed by all the people, commotion, cars.  The speed of the whole thing after the solitude of the waves was unbalancing.  That much time seeing nothing changes your internal tempo and I’m not sure when it will reset.  We walked and walked, reviving hibernating bears that are my legs.  People crossed the street for fear of their growling.

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Early the next morning before we headed south to Coomera a package showed up out of the blue, a bottle of Tasmanian bubbly from our friend Greg, long time supporter of our exploits on the seas.  We’re still not sure how he tracked us down so precisely, but the guy is wily as he is witty.  Thanks for the great surprise and the libations Greg!

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We fought the rising tide out of the Brisbane River then turned south.  Almost no wind stirred the water and we motored over the glassy cape. 

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Eventually we reached the winding narrows that make up the inner waterway.  Shifting sandbanks, braided channels, and contradictory navigation buoys make the fifty mile run from Bris to Coomera scenic but tenuous.

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As we delved deeper into the mangrove maze, neglected boats sat on their crusty hulls in the muck of low tide.  I had to assure poor Tayrona that this was not to be her fate, forgotten on the banks.  It’s a sad demise for a proud boat.  No, we were going to Coomera to get her shined up at a fancy marina with other catamaran friends!

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We passed over one-meter shallows several times.  No fun getting stuck on your last day-sail.  It got dark.  We followed the glowing lights up the winding river as bats the size of raccoons flocked overhead in the twilight.  I wondered what they fed on to get so big.  Moose?  Eventually the riverside marina came around the bend and, tired but happy, we found our slip in the dark.  Oops!  Someone else is in our berth!  So, tired but happy, we found a vacant slip in the dark.  Oops!  The owners show up in their boat just after we tie up!  So, tired but happy we found a third slip and then snuck off in the dark to the marina bar before anyone could oust us!  Last day-sail for Tayrona!

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The next day was Mother’s Day, so we scuffled off to the Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary, just outside of Brisbane.  It’s one of those cheeky things that sounds too toursty to be fun, but fun it was!  It’s hard to not feel like a little kid around koalas and kangaroos.  There were tons of other native animals.  My favorites were the husky bats which I had earlier confused with the Australian Air Force, as well as laughing kookaburra, though they didn’t like any of my jokes.

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Undeniably hilarious was the sheep sheering demonstration.  An embarrassed ewe was dragged out by the underarms and shorn to her skivvies in front of a chortling mob.  She waddled off mortified but unharmed, no doubt feeling more than a little sheepish.

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Fuzzy animals are a great way to take one’s mind off of troubling events looming on the horizon.  When it was time to go and get back to the business of listing Tayrona I felt a little like this guy.  Merp.

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Tasman Crossing: Day 10 Landfall

Author: Pete
Location: Brisbane, Australia

 

LAND HO!!!!! After 10 days crossing the Tasman Sea, Tayrona pulls safely into Brisbane, Australia!

Miranda spotted land low on the horizon this morning and shook me from my graveyard-shift-induced slumber. There it was, Australia. After two years of sailing west towards this moment it was pretty much impossible to hold back. A solid, “LAND HO!” burst forth from Miranda. Okay, it was me, but she was pretty excited too.

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It took a full day to navigate around Moreton Island and into the Brisbane river. Once you see land, it’s another sixty miles into port. It’s pretty much the slowest day ever. Just… grinds… Didn’t help that we had a head wind of fifteen knots and choppy irksome waves on the bow that made Tayrona lurch and stagger like a prize fighter on a losing streak.

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For a while it looked like the day would be stretched out to grueling eternity, but once we were in the lee of the island the waves smoothed out to zilch and our new course provided a favorable wind angle. We unfurled the sails and shot off at eight knots. I was so happy that we didn’t have to motor Tayrona in on her last landfall like some kind of clunky trawler. She wants to sail in!

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And sail we did. Sunset ’round these parts is five-thirty, and the cloudless day afforded a blazing, clear sunset as we approached the Brisbane River.

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We dodged a few cargo ships making for sea, and then navigated five miles up river in the dark. Is green on the right here, or is that the other way around? We eventually tied up at the Riverside Marina quarantine dock and were checked in by customs despite the late hour.

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I’m incandescent. We made it. We sailed to Australia.

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Tasman Crossing: Day 9

Author: Pete
Location: 27°18.139S’ 154°40.363E’

 

Day 9 at sea.

Man, that was an ugly couple of days. Last night felt like we were sailing underwater the visibility was so poor. Couldn’t discern sky from sea at the horizon. Yuck! Thank goodness for radar, cutting out through the rain.  The charcoal smudge that was the last couple days finally broke and we were rewarded with crisp blue skies and sunshine today.  We even saw evidence of life existing outside our hemisphere… a ship came ripping through the clear blue.  Man they’re fast.  Too fast.

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We hung out all our soggy foulies, damp blankets and towels, opened the hatches wide and filled the boat with air.  Although it was the day before Denny’s birthday, I made the call as captain of the vessel to celebrate a day early.  We were getting stir crazy and needed a little celebration.  And cake!  While baking on a rolling boat is no picnic, chocolate cake is a welcome deviation from fish.
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Spent a leisurely day chasing the sun from the cockpit to the trampoline, enjoying our last full day of passage off shore. With the fair weather of the high pressure system came light winds on the nose, so we’re motor sailing the last 70 miles to Brisbane. No sight of land yet, but we can feel it. I think we’re ready to be there.

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It’s Tayrona’s last night of passage under our command, the last graveyard watch, the last 3am sail change. I’m going to miss this foolishness.

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