Colon, Panama

Author: Miranda

Remember that saying that all Moms teach their kids?  “If you can’t say anything nice, don’t say anything at all?  Well, therefore my feelings on Colon as travel destination will stay pretty short and sweet.  We’ve done our best to save money by steering clear of nightly stays docked up at a marina, but while in Colon we decided to stay at Shelter Bay Marina, which is probably as far from Colon while still being able to access the city as possible.  It was glorious to be tied up to a dock for a little while.

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Now, I never felt in danger in Colon and the grocery store was quite large and decently well-stocked, but Colon is the epitome of all those mega-industrial port cities that have much more to worry about than if the visitors are impressed by clean streets, clean air, nightlife, and roads/sidewalks that aren’t riddled with potholes.

But you can’t deny being impressed and awed by the dozens of freighters that line the entrance to the city. The sheer efficiency and engineering that permeates all that surrounds the canal is inspiring and dwarfing at the same time.  

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Given the glamorous attractions of Colon, most folks arrive in the city and immediately start their paperwork to head through the canal and get out of dodge as soon as possible.  We did the same.  Most folks also use an agent to help them navigate the documentation and general rigamarole, but we decided we’d give it a shot on our own.  And, I’m glad we did.  It’s really not that complicated, and there’s a plethora of information online to walk any would-be do-it-yourselver through the process.  Easy-peasy.  More or less.

The first step was to organize an official measurement of our boat.  While the admeasurer was aboard, he also filled out the many documents the Canal Authority needs and gave us our invoice to be paid at the local Citibank- in cash only, of course. 

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I took our wad of cash to the bank- stuffed and hidden into various locations in my undergarments.  Yes, in his infinite maturity, Pete couldn’t help the many stripper jokes that go along with packing your undies with twenties, but I wore the grungiest clothing my closet could afford (which unfortunately affords many options these days) and he mostly shut-up about it.

After they take your money, the Panama Canal Authority assigns you an official date to go through the canal and you’re pretty much set.  Our date was about a week out after our payment, so we used the time to work on the boat- imagine that! 

Have I told you my favorite line about long distance cruising??

“Circumnavigating is simply fixing your boat in exotic locations.” 

Ha! Ain’t that the truth.

So, yes, the to-do list…

We hit it hard and had the yard at Shelter Bay haul out Tayrona.  She was in pretty desperate need of a new coat of bottom paint and we needed to replace our rudder bearings, which is best done by pulling the boat out of the water.

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As soon as we had her out of the water, we started scrapping off the barnacles and then sanding off the last paint job.  Not a fun job, and we eventually realized that throwing a little money at the issue to make it go faster was well worth it.  So, we hired a few of the yard workers for a half day to help us sand down our two hulls. 

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As soon as the first hull was sanded down, we taped her up and started painting, all the while continuing to sand down the second hull.  We love our catamaran, but just slightly less when two hulls means twice the work.  We were blessed with two free gallons of paint left on the boat by the previous owner, and we were double-blessed to find the exact same paint in Colon from Roberto at Club Nautico.

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Doesn’t she look pretty?

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Sleeping on a boat while that boat is on rafters on land is not a fun experience (the whole thing rattles in the wind and your subconscious is always waiting for the entire thing to be blown over), so we were excited to put our baby back in the water.

Motored across the bay to spend a night or two on anchor, which was plenty to take in the sights of Colon.

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In order to go through the canal, a boat needs four line handers plus the captain, so we found some extra hands around town to help us out…

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Felix (Liza’s hubby), and Jeanne and Denny (Pete’s Mom and step-Dad).  Woo-hoo!

So, we waited out a few more days in the marina, did some last minute errands, and let our excitement grow as we waited out our scheduled day to hit the canal!

We found a boat!

Author: Pete

Location: Fort Lauderdale, Florida

 

Short story:

WE FOUND A BOAT!

 

Long story:

WE FOUND A BOAT!

 

Coherent story:

Sorry. Still pretty excited. Okay, here goes…

After our 1 AM arrival to Naples, we still intended to make the boat scouting appointments that we had planned with our broker and some private listings the following day. All of the appointments were two hours away in Fort Lauderdale, so we were up at six o’clock and on the road again. Man we were getting sick of driving!

Made it to our appointment on time and met Steve Moore from the Catamaran Company who we had met on our previous mission to Florida. He introduced us to Kenan and his wife Julie, two young Brits who were selling their Lagoon 380 after a year sabbatical in the Bahamas. The boat was in beautiful shape for its age, and was very well equipped. Kenan is a professional captain on massive private yachts (220 feet massive), as well as a pilot. He knew the boat extremely well and kept good care of her. After a run through of the boat and some discussion of possible timeline we walked away with a distinct like of the boat and a good feeling about the owners.

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Our second, third, and fourth boats of the day went by in a blur. I don’t think we even got a picture of any of them! Our heads were still in the clouds about the Lagoon and nothing held a candle to it. We didn’t even discuss it much between us. We just drove back to the Catamaran Company, located in a floating office in a marina, and asked Steve to help us make an offer.

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It started pouring rain. The boat was listed outside of our comfortable price range. We decided to make an offer that we could afford, and make an itinerary for the hand over of the boat that would be attractive to the sellers. They were trying to fly back to the U.K. in mid-October, and were really hoping to move the boat before then. We crossed our fingers that giving them the option of a quick turn-around could make up for our lower offer.

With Steve’s help we filled in and sent a formal offer on the boat outlining purchase price, conditions, and dates for survey/sea trial, acceptance of vessel, and closing. We hurried a transfer to Cat. Co’s escrow account through some help with Miranda’s friends at her Wisconsin bank, and then sent the offer over to Kenan’s selling broker. Then we waited.

And we waited.

And it felt like forever.

In fact, it was only fifteen minutes, but I felt like the gun was going to go off for the cross country state meet, or I was going to sit a six hour quantum physic exam. This rates right up there in the stress. If I was prone to heart disease, I’d likely be dead.

And then Steve waltzes up the steps, sits and says casually, “Well, they accepted your offer.” I thought we’d fall out of our chairs but it was so nonchalant that I just stared at him. We signed some papers and made a few phone calls to set up sea trials and survey for the very next day.

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It was late in the day and we were to be back at the boat at 8:30 the following morning. Instead of driving two hours back to Naples, then retracing our steps the following day in the wee hours of the morning we opted to get a hotel in Fort Lauderdale. After a good night’s sleep we were back on the boat early and really, really excited.

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Kenan took us to the haul out, all the while making chit-chat in that British accent that will always make American ladies swoon. We navigated the busy waterways of Fort Lauderdale, avoiding towed yachts, ducking bridges, and jockeying in the respectable current. It was all very exciting.

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At the shipyard we docked carefully and waited for the lift, a massive motorized contraption that looked like it had been built out of Legos by some industrious ten-year-old. The workers guided thick straps under the hulls and positioned them carefully to not sit on the keels, rudders, or sail drives.

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With the grumble of a motor the boat was lifted slowly from the water, her undersides gleaming. The motorized lift rolled forward, for a second leaving the boat behind before it swung slightly and equalized in its motion.

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Once over firm ground the boat was lowered slightly and we gathered around it. Usually things look bigger underwater, like fish or skinny dippers, but this definitely looked much bigger out of the water.  I wondered what I was doing.

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The rain began to fall, fat and slow, and we all took shelter under the catamaran’s bridge deck. I wondered what people with monohulls did in this situation. Our surveyer Jon, who specialized in catamarans and knew the Lagoon 380 especially well, filled us in on his assessment of the boat so far. We were happy to hear positive news all around.

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The boat was put back in the water. I think I heard her audibly sigh. It’s unnatural for a vessel to be hanging from her hulls. We motored out into the Atlantic and put up sails. The wind was slight so we didn’t sail long, but enough to get the feel of the boat, work the sails, and give the surveyor a chance to check them.

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On the way back in the sky opened up again on us. I took the helm by request and let the others take shelter in the saloon. Without rain gear my shirt was quickly soaked. We waited twenty minutes for a bridge in the rain, working the twin diesels to keep us close enough to the bridge to shelter from lightning, but far enough to avoid collision.

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When we got back to dock I was soaked and chilly, but very much excited. We sat in the saloon and got the rundown from the surveyor. All in good, working shape, a few things that need to be addressed, but nothing major. Green light. We signed the Acceptance of Vessel.

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We stayed for an hour or so talking to Julie and Kenan about the boat and each others’ lives. They are a really interesting couple, extremely personable and open and we’re so happy to be accepting the boat from them and carrying on her adventure. Miranda and I drove back to Naples with our heads spinning.  We now are left with the task of getting all the paperwork settled and wire transfers lined up.  If all goes well, we close in early October and move aboard then. Oh, and one more thing- No name set in stone so far…  hmmm…

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